Small batches ferment/conditon faster?

[Jon.Martin]

Hey there ,
Started an extract/steep brew the last day and made it up to 12 litres @1.060 Og then dosed it with a premium yeast (no starter).
Is this batch going to complete fermentation in half the time or should I leave it for two weeks anyway?

Cheers/Sláinte/Na Zdrowie

[Dunkel]

Your beer should take around the same time as a larger batch. As my wife tells me, size doesn't matter    Wait two weeks, or three wouldn't do any harm, before bottling. But take a hydrometer reading before bottling.

[Jon.Martin]

Thanks Dunkel,
  Would it be ok to start dry hopping as soon as the airlock settles and leave it then for a further two weeks?

[irish_goat]

2 weeks dry hopping isn't recommended, you can get harsher, grassy flavours off the hops if they're left in that long. I normally aim for 5-7 days.

[johnrm]

I think the answer is no to OP assuming the yeast is scaled to the brew.
If you over pitch this will alter the flavor profile.

[Jon.Martin]

thanks goat. gonna go for five days dry hop and see what happens.
Johnrm when you say 'OP' is that literally to use too much yeast?

[johnrm]

There question in your original post (OP) was 'Is this batch going to complete fermentation in half the time or should I leave it for two weeks anyway?' In reference to a 12l batch.
What yeast are you using?
Depending on the yeast, this may be suited to a 23 litre batch in which case you may be over pitching.

[Jon.Martin]

Hey John, Using Mauribrew 497 (supposed to ferment like a lager or an ale depending on temp)
I added the sachet to the wort as normal

[Ciderhead]

10-15 Degrees?
http://www.maurivin.com/upload/MAURIBREW%20LAGER%20TDS.pdf

[Jon.Martin]

10-15 Degrees?
http://www.maurivin.com/upload/MAURIBREW%20LAGER%20TDS.pdf

read under the application heading.
'It can also be used at higher temperature to make a California ale type beer'

[Ciderhead]

Over the years I've become a yeast snob almost exclusively liquid and rarely used twice. 
I do have a couple of US05 and Nottingham in the fridge for emergencies but they are rarely used.

In a similar vain to the Mauribrew 497 I did a side by side comparision of an american lager using san fran wlp 810 in at 12 and one 18 Degrees, the 12 took longer but was much cleaner and crisper with a better hop profile, the 18 tasted ok but maltier lesser hops and took off at a rate of knots.   
I am therefore not fully convinced about hybrid yeasts but I am sure they will improve in the years to come.
In Aus their yeasts tend to reflect mad ambients and I see their ale yeast goes up to 32!
Coopers yeasts are very heat tolerant, but there has to be a compromise somewhere along the way for the yeast to tolerate mad temperatures.
I guess its what personal preference you have at the end of the day.

[johnrm]

Blood from a stone here.  :

What are you brewing? Ale or Lager?
What temperature are you fermenting at?

You need to take 3 consecutive daily Hydrometer readings to know when your fermentation is finished.

If your beer turns out well, then do exactly the same the next time. 

[Jon.Martin]

Blood from a stone here.  :

What are you brewing? Ale or Lager?
What temperature are you fermenting at?

You need to take 3 consecutive daily Hydrometer readings to know when your fermentation is finished.

If your beer turns out well, then do exactly the same the next time. 

Trying to brew something pale with light bitterness and a nice aroma, something your average lager drinker wouldn't be fussed drinking.
My temperature control is sadly a heat pad only which I only use if the airlock is not bubbling in the first few days.
Its been just over two weeks since I pitched, dry hopped for six days and not its sitting in primary for another few days before I add finings and proceed to transfer to my mini kegs at the appropriate time.

Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread, I appreciate all the help. I'm learning all the time.